Plastic vs. Metal

[Edric]

Being rather new to airsoft, I am curious what everyone thinks about the whole metal body vs. plastic body argument.

[Komissar]

I have one of each. My TM MP5 has a plastic body which is light weight, and if I drop it on a hard surface, it will crack and break. My ICS M4 came with a metal body, and if I drop it on a hard surface, it will crack and break. So, I can't say I prefer metal or plastic due to durability. I like the plastic TM, because at the end of the day I am not as tired from carrying the M4 of equal size. I do however, enjoy the full weight of the metal M4, which lends to the experience of what we do. The metal M4 just "feels real". Overall, I would not buy one or the other for the sake of metal versus a plastic body. I purchase for utility, function, price, and aesthetic, in that order. One more great thing about Airsoft, is that the AEGs are so customizable, and this includes plastic or metal parts.

[Hobbes]

I'd have to say that I agree with the Komissar on this. Neither material has much of a resilience gain over the other. For someone who is looking for an airsoft gun that is neigh indestructible (within reason) you might as well buy a wood body, or fabricate one yourself. My mp5 is a classic army weapon, metal body. I went with the metal body because I prefer the weight in my hands, it really does help with the illusion. I suppose like most things in airsoft, it comes down to personal preference.

[Sarge]

If you really want a durable body for your gun you have to buy a Hurricane MBK. Hurricane uses the same material that the real steel gun is made out of so your going to have a durable and very life like weapon. The only downside being that they are expensive, but you will have an airsoft riffle that you can use and abuse like a real rifle.

[Relay]

For me it's simple. I buy what is closest to the real thing. I run a M15A4 which the real thing is metal. So I bought one that was metal. If the real thing is synthetic, then I would buy a plastic gun.

[Joseph Aguilar]

I have a friend who is very set on having a solid gun body. He enjoys full-metal and will not even consider plastic bodies. For myself i really notice almost no difference. With my Echo 1 Barret it took me about 2 months before i realized it actually wasn't full-metal. I personally can't exactly tell, and if it feels good in my hands i'll use it.

[Ziggy]

Ok it kind of depends on the brand and how much you want to lug around. For plastic I would usually say no, but i myself own a plastic gun by Echo 1 and its still perfectly fine and realistic. Metal bodies are good and sturdy (usually), but they can be heavy and tiresome to run around with. If you decide on plastic make sure its a good solid plastic not the cheapy guns at big 5, metal you cant go wrong unless its an Aftermath brand. Hope this helped

[Tank]

Mike it is also the model of gun your echo 1 is plastic because the real gun is ABS plastic metal is usually better in so many ways its sturdier and can take some falls or drops (accidental of course) plastic on the other hand may crack or break. on the other hand the better the brand the better the plastic quality

[Sproket]

That's a good point - not all plastic is the same quality. Also, the joints in the plastic will make a BIG difference.
I'm having trouble with the stock on my Classic Army G3. It is not a very crack-resistant plastic, and the joints are pretty bad.
They are not very wide, and not so flat, so glue doesn't hold as well. Also, the mechanical parts of the joints (pins and sockets) are small, probably not tight-fitting, and there aren't a lot.

Good plastic guns will have better joints - meaning less likely to flex and thus break.

[Komissar]

I have found that plastic modeling glue works wonderfully at repairing broken plastic stocks.

Not the type you squeeze from the tube, but the type that is clear, water type, liquid that comes in small clear screw top bottles used for quality models.

Just remove any dust or dirt, or burs from the broken parts. (And do not apply it over another failed glue attempt) If you used another glue first, the sand it off. Then paint the clear glue on with the little brush inside the lid. Press an hold the pieces for 10+ minutes for the two parts to bond. They will actually be melted together into one piece which cannot be separated except by breaking anew. The glue bond will be stronger than the plastic itself.

After it has dried, (I recommend clamping it for 24 hours to have it set) then sand the former break with 200 grit paper, and give it a light dusting of flat black paint. It can be made invisible, and it will be as strong as it was when new.